Sarajevo – Thursday, October 27th

Sarajevo. This city has somewhat of a legend status to me. One of the main civilisation crossing points, a place that has seen exchange and hatred through centuries. It is also a city I have heard about again and again in throughout my childhood, dreadful news on the tv. Said to be the pearl of the country, it sustained a multiple-year siege, a tremendous 4-million-shell hell backed up by snipers aiming at a simple goal: wiping the city.

Nowadays, the city still bears the scars of the violence in people's mind. They are also present everywhere but in the very center of the town, a dramatic view for the traveller entering the city from its south-western border. The activity of a modern city, its buildings and shopping centers melts with the remains of dark times. Ruins, shell and bullet hole-splattered buildings, sometimes hidden by a few breeze-blocks, goes right to my heart as I try to imagine what it was to live there twenty years ago.

As the initial shock fades out, I discover the city and its unusual geography. Sarajevo is a major capital town, spreading over the 10km of its large valleys, at the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina's mountains. I go through residential districts, then industrial areas, followed by business and office buildings before I finally reach the center. It has a je-ne-sais-quoi I really like.

Warm, welcoming, I immediately feel at home there. It is a calm place, with friendly people and I enjoy spending hours wandering around, in the walkings streets of Baščaršija — built by the Ottoman empire in the 15th century —, visiting small shops of home-made tin stuff and smoke-filled coffees where young as well as old people come to enjoy the view of the street. Then I go eat in one of the numerous Ćevabđinica and Buregđinica. In those tiny fast-foods, as few as 3 marks are enough to fill the biggest stomach with rolled pies stuffed with grilled meat, potatoes or spinach. Or one can also go to any bakery and get a delicious Buhtla ćokolada, a kind of brioche with chocolate, or some Kiflas with sesame.

When the night comes, young people meet to go to the cinema, have a chicha, or drink a few beers in one of the pubs. Those are really good, even though there are only a handful of them in the city. Not to mention very cheap, as few as 3KM (€1.50) for a pint. And nightlife in Sarajevo is quite good, featuring its share of great encounters, nice places, good/cheap alcohol and the occasional fighting in the streets.

Time flees. I'm in love with this city. My day time follows the rythm of muezzin's songs, and I learn Bosnian in my lazy hours. People get to know me, and greet me when they see my backpack roaming the city. And every now and then when I get bored, I go to that square where old men play chess on a giant board painted on the floor. I now have a few friends I regularly go out with, and even met some other travelers, some of whom have now been living in Sarajevo for a couple of months.

But the road is calling me, and I have to meet another traveler soon: we will be walking together for awhile. Thus, after a last buhtla, I set off and hit the road again.

Sarajevo. Second to none but Paris in my heart.

Twilight over Sarajevo