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Višegrad and Sarajevo

Having left Benoît and Alex in Ustiprača, I reach Višegrad alone. It is a nice, small town, though mostly dead once I have seen and crossed the famous Bridge over Drina. I still have to stay there for a couple of days though, as I am waiting for another traveller, with whom I will travel for a while. I use this time to enjoy the slow pace of the town, and talk with the 3, maybe 4 people who speak English. Mostly young people. They are cool, and even help me find a place to sleep at: a former hotel, now slowly rotting on the top of a hill.

I happen to wander around in the market someday, and encounter a woman who asks me what religion I believe in — a pretty common question in the area, nothing to be shocked of once you got used to it. Common but dangerous question, and I answer with a careful agnosticism. It seems to suit her as she starts telling me how she feld Sarajevo, a town she believes is impossible to live in now because of “all thoses muslims”. Hmmm… Not sure it is a good idea to point at the fact that the absence of Bosnians from Višegrad is mostly due to the massive and horrific slaughters commited by the Serbian army in the 90s.

I go back to Sarajevo on that Thursday, by bus as I do not really fancy walking the same way again. Florian's plane lands there and I offered to show him around Sarajevo for 2 days. That's exactly what I do before we set off. Towards Višegrad again, as fast as we can, which may not be as fast I we want when timelines are wrong, change without notice, and we feel like juste taking the first bus going vaguely eastwards.


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Bus timelines in Pale, learn Cyrillic quickly or be lost. No, they are not available in latin alphabet, and no people do not speak English.

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We make it eventually, having fought cyrillic-only timelines (I handle cyrillic pretty well now), an obstructive tent and an icy cold. We have a nice evening, meeting some cool inhabitants who invite us for a drink. Then back to the former hotel on the top of the hill: next day is a big day:

Serbia awaits us. We shall not fail it.